The focus of the series has been the gardens of Italy, which are well known all over the world. The series comes in four parts and in each part, Monty Don travels throughout Italy visiting beautiful formal gardens, incredible villas, and gorgeous hideaways. He looks beyond the beauty, also unraveling the intrigue, romance, drama, and history surrounding them.

Some of the areas of Italy that are visited include Rome, Florence, south Italy, and the northern part of the country. Instead of focusing on just how to grow certain plans in a garden, this series is all about focusing on the culture in Italy that influenced the gardens through the years.

Throughout the series, there are interesting characters to meet, stunning scenery to enjoy, and many compelling stories to learn as well. Stunning video shows the best of these incredible gardens, as well as close ups of a variety of beautiful plants, and vistas that simply take the breath away.

Monty Don has commented that his own garden is actually influenced by the incredible gardens in Italy, and it’s definitely easy to see why. Instead of looking simply at the gardens, Monty Don goes beyond to find out about the stories that are behind the gardens. His passionate descriptions, combined with interesting history and stories, not only allows you to learn more about gardening, but more about the region as well.

The start of the series occurs in Padua at the Orto Botanico, which is the oldest garden in the world that is dedicated to studying the medicinal properties of plants. Monty Don also visits Stra where he goes to the Villa Pisani. He also visits the estate that Napoleon annexed for Elisa, his sister, which is located in Lucca. Even the huge villas of Richard Branson and George Clooney are visited. Later he even visits the Isola Bella, which is located right on Lake Maggiore.

For those who are interested in gardening and the incredible history behind it, this series is sure to be one to watch and enjoy. Enjoy learning more about Italian culture through their gardens while enjoying the breathtaking views that are offered. The commentary by Monty Don himself only adds to this series, making it a great purchase if you weren’t able to see it on television.

You can purchase DVD of Monty Don’s Italian Gardens from amazon.

References:

http://www.hotbrandscoolplaces.com/non-fiction-reviews/monty-don-italian-gardens.html

http://www.italianreflections.com/2011/04/monty-dons-italian-gardens-series-begins.html

http://www.guardian.co.uk/tv-and-radio/2011/may/07/monty-don-italian-garden-review

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/gardenstovisit/8375963/Monty-Dons-Italian-Campaign.html

http://www.europe-current-events.com/2011/05/07/monty-dons-italian-gardens-%E2%80%93-review/

• Place your container in a spot that gets at least 4 hours of sun a day and is convenient for you to water. Greens grow well in any container that has at least 6 inches of space for soil and a drainage hole.

• Fill your container with a high-quality organic potting mix to within 1 inch of the rim and then water it in.

• If you’re using seeds, sprinkle the seeds as thinly and evenly as possible across the soil. Gently press the seeds into the damp soil to ensure good soil to seed contact and then cover the seeds with a very light layer of potting soil (about 1/8 inch). Water them in with a gentle stream of water. If you are planting seedlings, space them 6 inches apart. Consider mixing leaf lettuces into your ornamental containers.

• Keep the soil evenly moist. Lettuce needs a constant supply of water to keep the plants growing fast and to prevent them from turning bitter or going to seed prematurely. Remember that pots dry out much more quickly then garden soil, so you may need to water a couple of times a day if the weather is warm or your container gets a lot of sun.

• Harvest greens planted by seed at the baby greens stage. When the greens are about 4 inches tall, simply mow them down with scissors, leaving about a 1 inch stub. After cutting, water with one cup of diluted fish emulsion to give the plants a little kick start. The greens will re-grow in just a few weeks and you can get two to three harvests from one sowing. Allow seedlings to grow into mature heads. Pinch the leaves as needed or harvest the whole head by slicing it off at the soil line with a sharp knife.

Cherry Tomatoes

• Use ties and stakes to prevent plants from flopping over and damaging the fruit. Place the stake at the same time you plant the seedling to avoid damaging roots down the road.

Growing Basil

• Use well-drained, nutrient rich potting soil and check the pH every four to six weeks. Although basil isn’t fussy about soil composition, it will grow best in a soil with about a 6.0 to 7.5 pH. Maintain pH with a good organic fertilizer at about half the recommended strength on the label.

• Keep the earth moist, but not soggy. After watering, drain excess water from the plant saucer.

• If a sunny window isn’t available, grow your basil under artificial lighting. Ten to twelve hours a day under a fluorescent shop fixture is an economical way to provide your plants with the light requirements they need.

Growing Peppers

• Peppers will need a pot that is at least 8 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter. Most varieties will grow to about 12-16 inches, so plan for a decent sized pot.

• If you plant your peppers too early, then frost will possibly kill them. if you plant them too late, then they will never mature in time for you to pick them at a reasonable size.

• Pepper seeds should be started about eight weeks before they need to be transplanted. They take about two weeks to germinate, and they require temperatures of at least 80 degrees F. After they germinate, it will be six or eight weeks until they reach the proper size for transplanting.

• It is important to keep peppers warm. They need full sun and very warm weather. Move pots around if necessary to keep them in as much sun as possible.

Find a great recipe of Cherry Tomato Salad here.

Sources:

http://www.ehow.com/how_2159618_grow-salad-containers.html

http://www.ehow.com/how_2199332_grow-cherry-tomatoes-containers.html

http://www.gardening-guides.com/herbs/grow-basil-container.php

http://www.container-gardening-tips.com/container-vegetable-gardening/growing-peppers-in-containers.html

Here are a few tips to keep your hanging baskets alive all the time:

• Develop a routine of watering consistently. Regular tap water is perfectly fine for hanging baskets in most areas of the UK.

• Over-watering and under-watering are both major problems. In many ways, over-watering can be the bigger problem as it washes away nutrients from the soil which are not recovered as the basket is self contained. This means hanging baskets do not last anyway near as long as they should do. So when watering avoid putting so much in that water continuously pours through the bottom of the basket. Provide enough water so that compost is completely wet and a trickle starts to come through the bottom and then leave.

• Use only soilless planting mixes – free of weeds, diseases and insects. Those with extra peat moss will keep the mix moist longer.

• Don’t allow plants to wilt. Wilted plants are stressed and more susceptible to disease problems.Pebble or bark mulch cuts down on surface evaporation.

• If the basket does dry out excessively, place the whole pot in a bath full of water for an hour to reabsorb needed moisture.

• In hot, windy conditions, set pots in well-protected areas out of the afternoon sun. Take pots down in extreme wind to prevent damage.

• During hot and sunny periods, some plants may require watering two to three times daily.

• Fertilizers higher in phosphorous (middle number) such as 1:2:1 are better for flowering plants.

• Plastic pots do not allow wind to pass through the root system – so they do not dry out as fast.

• Some pots have a water well at the base of the container with a wick to keep moisture levels more consistent.

Automated Watering Solutions

• AquaSpikes – They are cones. Fill a plastic liter soda bottle with water, insert the cone into the open end and invert the bottle. Poke the cone down into the soil. A “wicking” action takes place.

• Aqua Globes – It is a simple and attractive way to keep plants perfectly watered all the times. Aqua Globes, the hand-blown glass watering bulb automatically waters plant for up to 2 weeks.

• DriWater Gel Packs – It is very easy to use and ideal for vacationers. It provides water up to 30-90 days.

• Water Maid Wicks – Watering plants for over 40 years! Simply push green tipped end into the soil containing the plant to be watered. Place the other end in a bowl of water.

Resource : http://www.jacksonandperkins.com/gardening/GP/gatepage/tips_containertips

The first Royal Horticultural Society Great Spring Show was held in 1862, at the RHS garden in Kensington. Chiswick had witnessed flower shows organized by RHS from 1883 together with fetes in the Chiswick garden. However, the Kensington Garden was chosen as a new site because the flower shows in Chiswick were facing shortage of visitors year by year owing to problems such as poor transport links. The Great Spring Show was held at Kensington for twenty-six years but in 1888 the RHS decided to move the show to the heart of London. The site chosen was the Temple Gardens, situated between the Embankment and Fleet Street, which had a recorded history dating back to 1307 and which were said to date from the time of the Knights Templar. It was so famous and a successful event that captured the attention of the entire people and surprisingly the roses for which these Temple Gardens were famous were alluded to in Shakespeare’s Henry VI Part 1 as well. Using two marquees requisitioned from the old Kensington shows the 1888 show was a success with exhibitions from both amateurs and commercial firms. By 1897 five marquees were being used with many of the best known plant and seed merchants being attracted to the event including Suttons and Sons.

In 1912, the Temple Show was cancelled to pave way for the Royal International Horticultural Exhibition. Sir Harry Veitch, known as the great nurseryman, ensured the grounds of the Royal Hospital, Chelsea, for this one-off event. Needless to say the new site was proven to be a superb location to conduct such a great show and it continues to be held here since 1913.

Where does Chelsea Flower Show stand TODAY?

The best thing about Chelsea Flower Show is it receives a lot of publicity, an event attended by 157,000 visitors each year (a number limited by the capacity of the 11-acre (45,000 m2) ground), and all tickets must be purchased in advance. Taking the volume of the increasing visitors and popularity into consideration, the show was extended from four days to five from 2005, with the first two days withheld only for RHS members. The show is extensively covered on television by the BBC. An official DVD of the show is produced on behalf of the RHS by Twofour. The event gets more colorful with the members of the British Royal Family turning up for a preview of the show, as part of the royal patronage of the RHS. The area of land dedicated to show gardens shot up sharply between 1970 and 2000 and the show has become an important venue for watching trends today. Another significant aspect of this show is it also witnesses a number of new launches of new plants and the popularity of older varieties revived under the focus of the horticultural world.  The best metaphor one could ever attribute to Chelsea Flower Show is something like a perfect garden design as a catwalk at a fashion show is important and unavoidable.

Highlights of Chelsea Flower Show 2009

• Show Gardens
• Urban Gardens
• Courtyard Gardens
• The Great Pavilion – featuring the Continuous Learning Educational displays
• Floral Design Marquee
• Gardening Products  & sundries
• Gardening Matters Marquee

Find Highlights of Chelsea Flower Show 2010

Plan Your Visits to 2010 show

Sit on a Bucket to Weed Your Garden

One of the most popular positions for extended weeding sessions is to sit. If you have knee, hip or back pain, sitting will help you avoid putting pressure onto those areas. But even sitting and weeding can take its toll on your back if you don’t know how to move efficiently. Grab a bucket and I’ll show you what I mean.

Hands and Knees Weeding to Protect Your Back

When weeding on all fours, the goal is keep your whole spine long. Because you will need to shift around while you work, keeping a long spine requires watching and feeling how your shoulders are bearing responsibility for reaching, grasping and supporting your body weight. Also, be aware of any pockets of muscle tension along your trunk. Once you become attentive to unnecessary tension, you can relax out of it.

Protect Your Back While Standing and Weeding

One easy thing you can do to make standing and weeding your garden comfortable for your back is to prop your elbow against your leg. This will create an external brace, which will help stabilize your body posture when you bend and reach for the weeds. It is also helpful to use a wide stance, which will create a stable base of support for you as you work.

Back Saving Techniques for Sitting on the Ground to Weed

For those with flexible hip joints and relatively healthy lower backs, sitting on the ground is an option when weeding the garden. Sit with your legs bent, positioning one in front and the other in back. Try to anchor your sitting bones into the ground equally. This will bring your pelvis and spine into an upright position.

As with other weeding positions, keeping a long spine will help you avoid back strain and conserve your energy for when physical exertion is really necessary to get the job done.

Top tips to make watering easier

• Some watering cans can be awkward to carry, so choose a design you can manage easily. A lightweight watering can with flat sides should be easier to carry and tip than a round can.
• You can cut the need to water by mulching the soil, which keeps moisture in. You can also keep pots and containers moist by adding water-retaining gel or granules to the compost and by standing pots on a layer of moist compost.
• Choose plants that like drier conditions – particularly for dry parts of the garden, or if you have free-draining soil. Find out more about easy-care plants in Thrive’s plant guide
• Water in the evening, when there is less evaporation. You can save time and effort by putting water butts and stand pipes at convenient places around the garden.  Make sure that taps and lids are easy for you to use.
• Concentrate on the plants that really need water – seedlings, newly planted trees and plants, and containers. Water vegetables when they need it most – when tubers are forming, when hearts are forming on leafy plants, and when peas and beans are flowering.
• Group containers together as they will need regular watering. Clay pots lose water more quickly than plastic ones.  In the summer, place saucers under your containers but remove them in the winter or in prolonged wet weather.

Taking care

• A heavy watering can will be awkward to carry. Use a small, lightweight watering can or a large cup, to water seedlings or containers.
• A heavy hose might be hard to manage.  A lightweight curly hose will be easier to carry and to use. Store the hose at a height where you can reach it without bending.
• Reaching to water out-of-reach plants can cause extra strain, so don’t over stretch.
• Wet paths can cause glare and slips, so take care when watering or if it’s been raining.

Equipment and tools

• A lightweight plastic watering can with flat sides should be easier to carry and tip than a round can.
• A can with a valve control releases water on demand and needs less tipping, saving arm strain.  Make sure that you can operate the push button easily.
• An expanding, or curly hose is easier and lighter to pull into position and springs back into place.
• Lance spay, fan spray, trigger grip or squeeze grip spray attachments can help you get water to hanging baskets or other out-of-reach plants.
• There is a whole range of automated watering options, including drip watering systems that can be set up to link to hanging baskets, growbags, or greenhouse plants.  While these systems can be costly and fiddly to set up, they can save time – and can even save water.
• You could lay seep hoses in your beds and borders. They deliver water to the plants more slowly.
• Capillary matting takes water to the base of plants and seed trays and is useful in the greenhouse and conservatory.

So, your inability to bend is never going to be an obstacle when it comes to watering your plants.

source: http://www.carryongardening.org.uk/watering-when-you-cant-bend-easily.aspx

It has captivated nature lovers with its beauty and serenity. Apart from its beauty, Wilsey Garden is also known for the wealth of information and gardening ideas it provides the gardening lovers.

How did the lovely Wisely Garden come into existence? Let us look into the History of these gardens.

Wisely was founded by Victorian businessman and RHS member George Ferguson Wilson in the year 1878. He created the “Oakwood Experimental Garden” in a small portion of the site, where he decided to make difficult plants grow effectively.  Wilson passed away in the year 1902 and Oakwood was purchased by Thomas Hanbury, the founder of garden La Mortola. Thomas later gifted the site to Royal Horticultural Society. Since then Wisley has developed gradually attracting swarms of people across the globe.

Some of the attractive features of this garden include –

• Alpine Meadow
• Rock Gardens
• Glasshouse with desert, tropical and temperate climates
• Plant centre which apart from selling a wide range of plants also provides professional advice on numerous gardening issues
• Model Gardens which can provide the visitors with the knowledge required to carry out gardening successfully.
• Fruit Orchards and Vegetable garden
• Trials field (Here plants are submitted for trials. Those which pass the assessments of horticultural merit  are awarded the coveted Award of Garden Merit )
• Shops selling huge collection of books on gardening

 If you are looking for a place to unwind after getting mesmerized by the splendor of these gardens, then look no further. There are several restaurants offering mouth-watering meals and   place to relax.

Currently the Wilson garden houses around 43226 living plant Accessions. You can find the following varieties of plants -

Orchidaceae, Epimedium, Crocus, Colchicum, Galanthus, Hosta, Rheum, Cyclamen, Narcissus, Daboecia, Erica, Calluna. Rhododendron, rock-garden plants, conifers, heathers, Mediterranean and Near East bulbs,apples.

Throughout the year Wisley has several events taking place. With the spectacular orchids in the Glasshouse in Spring time to the well admired “August Flower Show” and not to forget the exciting “A Taste of Autumn”, everyone can enjoy the events at Wisley.

Wisley Garden has never stood still and continues to expand and improve with the help of acknowledged leaders in the realm of garden design. This garden is a must see for everyone.

So what are you waiting for?  Head to the Wisley Garden immediately.

To get started with the amazing journey to Wisley read the details of the garden below –

• Location: RHW Wisley Garden, Woking, Surrey, GU23 6QB, England
• Phone: +44 (0)845 260 9000
• Opening times: The gardens are open all days, except Christmas Day. Last admission is one hour before closing time.Monday to Friday (10 a.m. to 6 p.m), Saturday and Sunday (9 a.m. to 6 p.m)
• Admission: £7.50, children 6 -16 £2, no admission fee for RHS Members and their families
• Getting there

By car: Wisley is 20 miles southwest of London. Look for tourist attraction signs with flower symbols.

By train: Trains from London Waterloo Station leave regularly to Woking. Take a taxi from the station to get to Wisley. On weekdays during the summer months, a special bus service operates from Woking Station to Wisley.

By bus: There are hourly buses, every day, from Surbiton train station and Guildford bus stations.

For more information you can check out their website –

            http://www.rhs.org.uk

              Sources

            http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wisley_Garden

            http://gouk.about.com/od/ukgardensandgardening/qt/rhs_wisley.htm

             http://www.ishs.org/news/?p=70

             http://www.gardens-guide.com/gardenpages/_0079.htm

             http://www.gardenvisit.com/garden/rhs_garden_wisley

             http://www.worldreviewer.com/travel-guides/garden/wisley-garden/1118

                http://www.bgci.org/garden.php?id=275

                http://www.funkidslive.com/take-me-out/attractions/parks-and-open-spaces/rhs-wisley-a

Weeds have been regarded as a problem from before 1200 BC. They can be the most frustrating part of the gardening experience. They consume water, sunlight and soil nutrients that are meant for intentionally sown plants. They can be really pernicious because their seeds are dispersed by wind, water, animals, insects and even humans. Also, their root systems are the chief obstacle to maintaining a weed-free garden; weeds continue to regenerate and spread in spite pulling them out.

So a basic strategy for weed control is twofold

- prevent weeds from growing in the first place,

- and minimize seed dispersion.

Here are some ways to keep those ugly weeds out of your garden:

Herbicide is effective, but it can be environmentally harmful and may work only on a short-term basis. No matter how much herbicide you use, weeds will continue to appear if the spread of seeds is not eliminated.

In the nineteenth century there were tremendous advances in weed control in comparison with the entire period from 8000 years ago. The discovery of (2,4-dichlorophenoxy)acetic acid (2,4-D) in 1942–1944 has been a contributing factor.

But there are also many simple organic ways to keep weeds out of your garden:

- Spread a layer of mulch over your garden. This blocks sunlight from weed root systems below the soil.

- While removing weeds manually, make sure their root systems are removed. Use a trowel to dig up the roots of a weed.

- Overheating: Spread a plastic sheet, held down at the edges, over the weeds. The heat generated inside the plastic kills the weeds.

- Keep a barrier below the soil by spreading a layer of newspapers (around ten sheets thick) over your garden before adding top soil. Every year you can add newspapers to the sensitive areas.

- Try the sanitation strategy of greenhouses: keep clothes, shoes and gardening tools clean to prevent dispersion of weeds.

- Corn-gluten is an organic weed-killer that also introduces nitrogen into the soil.

In lawns, mowing and watering problems often cause weeds. Cutting the grass too short leaves room for weeds to penetrate. Occasional watering that reaches deep into the soil is better than regular, shallow sprinkling.

Some further reading on weed control:

Flower and Garden Tips: http://www.flower-and-garden-tips.com/controlweeds.html

How To Get Rid of Stuff.com: http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/uncategorized/how-to-get-rid-of-weeds/

Do It Yourself.com: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/weediq

Sources

Quamut: The Go-To-How-To: http://quamut.com/quamut/gardening_basics/page/how_to_fight_garden_weeds_pests_and_diseases.html

Word Net: wordnet.princeton.edu/perl/webwn

Do It Yourself.com: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/weediq

How Stuff Works.com: http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-fight-persistent-weeds.htm

Yahoo Answers: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090305165914AAywtLy

Flower and Garden Tips: http://www.flower-and-garden-tips.com/controlweeds.html

How To Get Rid of Stuff.com: http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/uncategorized/how-to-get-rid-of-weeds/

What price? – The Price-Sharing Community: http://www.whatprice.co.uk/advice/gardening/common-weed-removal.html

Weed Science Society of America: http://wssa.allenpress.com/perlserv/?request=get-abstract&doi=10.1614%2F0043-1745(2005)053%5B0748%3AAHOWCI%5D2.0.CO%3B2&ct=1

Garden Digest: http://www.gardendigest.com/timegl.htm#Start

Finding the time and having the space should not necessarily prevent you from trying out your horticultural abilities. In fact ‘grow your own’ is the big buzz word these days, and there’s nothing quite like the taste of your own homegrown fruit or vegetables!

Growbags

Growbags are an ideal and very affordable way to begin, especially for plants without deep roots and they take all the guess work out of planting. You will be able to very simply and easily grow tomatoes, aubergines, chillies and cucumber. A typical growbag measure 35cm x 95cm (13in x 37in) and has ample space for three vegetable plants that will provide you with enough food for several meals over the summer.

Many advantages

Growbags have many advantages, i.e. more growing space than the traditional container planters, which only have the ability to only grow vertically from the top of the soil. Grow bags can grow all around the bag allowing you to display more plants.

An obvious benefit is less mess – grow bags can come ready prepared with all the organic material you need. Just add plants, water and you have an instant garden! By using growbags vertically, you have more options for where you locate your plants.

Growbags are relatively cheap and compared to buying your own hanging baskets or container planters, the set up costs are minimal.

Gardening Which http://www.which.co.uk/advice/your-garden undertook a trial of all grow bags currently available and the one which beat them all hands down was J Arthur Bowers New Horizon Peat Free Grow Bag http://www.william-sinclair.co.uk/gardening/products/other_growing_media. Second was Asda’s www.asda.co.uk and third was Westlands Complete Grow http://www.podington.co.uk/search.html.

The only space you will require is a small patio or balcony that is accessible to warm sunlight, if you do not have a greenhouse.

Simple Preparation

The aim is to plant two to three plants in each bag during spring .

Endive, lettuce, basil and rocket can be sown from spring to late summer.

In less than 30 minutes you will be able to prepare and plant your grow bag with just the following basic items : 1 peat-free growing bag, 3 vegetable plants, a watering can, label and pen – as simple and straight- forward as that!

What To Do – getting hands-on

The first thing to do is loosen the compost in the bag by shaking and kneading it like a pillow.

Next, shape the bag into a low hummock, making sure the compost is evenly spread.

Pierce the base of bag for drainage and cut out the pre-marked planting squares or, alternatively, you can just cut a long rectangular panel in the top of the bag and sow salads in rows across the width.

Scoop out compost from each square leaving a hole big enough for the root ball of your plant. Put a plant in each hole and refill around it with compost. The top of each root ball should be just below the top of the bag.

Water well and label.

That’s all there is to it.

Keep the compost moist and feed plants such as aubergine, tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers with a high potash fertiliser when flowers appear – this will ensure you get the plumpest fruit. Once the process is complete, simply split the bag open and recycle the compost as a soil conditioner in the garden, which naturally completes the cycle – until the next time!

Happy growbag gardening!